Pet Care with Coconut Oil

We are aware of the several benefits of coconut oil. Not only is it a healthy product that is good for our body, it can also cater to several of our daily skin and hair care requirements. Once you try this product, it will be an invaluable component in your daily personal care regime and a staple in your pantry. The use of this miracle product does not end here.

Did you know that coconut oil can be used on your pets too? This natural product offers benefits to animals too. So, why not introduce your furry friends to it, and pamper them with the awesome goodness of this pure oil?

Here are some ways in which coconut oil can help you with grooming your pets. Coconut oil can be applied to the skin and coat of dogs and cats. It will soothe wounds and cure skin infections. The antifungal and antimicrobial properties will aid in clearing up any skin rashes, as well as disinfect wounds and sores. Cracked paws will heal faster when coconut oil is applied.

It is an inexpensive conditioner, and with regular use animal skin and hair will look glossier, and be healthier than before. Topical application of coconut oil will deodorize and make your canine friend smell much better.

Is your dog’s waistline expanding? Feed him coconut oil to get rid of the extra fat. Coconut oil is known to slim dogs who are overweight. When taken internally, it can boost the immune system of animals. The oil also supports normal thyroid functioning. You can get their ear infections, viral infections and yeast infections under control by making coconut oil a regular constituent of their diet.

Your pet will most probably love the taste and smell of coconut oil, and will be pleased to feast on it. However, do not start with a huge quantity. Begin slowly, with half a teaspoon per 20 pounds of weight. If there are no significant changes to how they feel or in the appearance of their stools, continue building up the quantity till you reach two full teaspoons per day.

Consumption of coconut oil improves the digestive process and you can use it when preparing doggy treats. Over time, you will observe his skin clear up and his infections getting much better.  Finally, coconut oil can offer significant relief to painful arthritis in older animals, and can ease joint pains and inflammation. It has also been studied to reduce cancer risks in animals.

So, what are you waiting for? Introduce your animal friend to this miracle ingredient and let them enjoy the advantages, just as you do!

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Bringing Your New Dog Home

Preparation and patience are key to building a happy relationship

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The key to helping your new dog make a successful adjustment to your home is being prepared and being patient. It can take anywhere from two days to two months for you and your pet to adjust to each other. The following tips can help ensure a smooth transition.

First, gather your dog's supplies

Prepare the things your dog will need in advance. You'll need a collar and leash, food and water bowls, food, and, of course, some toys. And don't forget to order an identification tag right away.

Establish house rules in advance

Work out your dog-care regimen in advance among the human members of your household. Who will walk the dog first thing in the morning? Who will feed him at night? Will Fido be allowed on the couch, or won't he? Where will he rest at night? Are there any rooms in the house that are off-limits?

Plan your dog's arrival

Try to arrange the arrival of your new dog for a weekend or when you can be home for a few days. Get to know each other and spend some quality time together. Don't forget the jealousy factor—make sure you don't neglect other pets and people in your household!

Be prepared for housetraining

Assume your new dog is not housetrained, and work from there. Read over the housetraining information given to you at the time of adoption and check out our housetraining tips forpuppies or adult dogs. Be consistent, and maintain a routine. A little extra effort on your part to come home straight from work each day will pay off in easier, faster housetraining.

Make sure all your pets are healthy

Animal shelters take in animals with widely varying backgrounds, some of whom have not been previously vaccinated. Inevitably, despite the best efforts of shelter workers, viruses can be spread and may occasionally go home with adopted animals. If you already have dogs or cats at home, make sure they are up-to-date on their shots and in good general health before introducing your new pet dog.

Take your new dog to the veterinarian within a week after adoption. There, he will receive a health check and any needed vaccinations. If your dog has not been spayed or neutered, make that appointment! There are already far too many homeless puppies and dogs; don't let your new pet add to the problem. Most likely, the shelter will require that you have your pet spayed or neutered anyway. If you need more information about why it is so important to spay or neuter your dog, read our online information on spaying and neutering.

Give your dog a crate

A crate may look to you like the canine equivalent of a jail cell, but to your dog, who instinctively likes to den, it's a room of his own. It makes housetraining and obedience-training easier and saves your dog from the headache of being yelled at unnecessarily for problem behavior. Of course, you won't want to crate your dog all day or all night, or he will consider it a jail cell. Just a few, regular hours a day should be sufficient.

The crate should not contain wire where his collar or paws can get caught, and should be roomy enough to allow your dog to stand up, turn around, and sit comfortably in normal posture. More on crate training »

If a crate isn't an option, consider some sort of confinement to a dog-proofed part of your home. A portion of the kitchen or family room can serve the purpose very well. (A baby gate works perfectly.)

Use training and discipline to create a happy home

Dogs need order. Let your pet know from the start who is the boss. When you catch him doing something he shouldn't, don't lose your cool. Stay calm, and let him know immediately, in a loud and disapproving voice, that he has misbehaved. Reward him with praise when he does well, too! Sign up for a local dog obedience class, and you'll learn what a joy it is to have a well-trained dog. Also be sure to read our tip sheet on training your dog with positive reinforcement.

Let the games begin

Dogs need an active life. That means you should plan plenty of exercise and game time for your pet. Enjoy jogging or Frisbee? You can bet your dog will, too. If running around the park is too energetic for your taste, try throwing a ball or a stick, or just going for a long walk together. When you take a drive in the country or visit family and friends, bring your dog and a leash along.

Be patient and enjoy the results

Finally, be reasonable in your expectations. Life with you is a different experience for your new companion, so give him time to adjust. You'll soon find out that you've made a friend for life. No one will ever greet you with as much enthusiasm or provide you with as much unqualified love and loyalty as your dog will. Be patient, and you will be amply rewarded.

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Why Dog Food Is For Dogs and Cat Food Is For Cats

Ever wondered why some pet foods sport cats on the packaging… while others only offer us dogs?

It may sound silly to you, but plenty of people ignore the pics and labels altogether, apparently laboring under the illusion that as long as there’s a furred and four-legged creature on the side of the bag or can it’s bound to be acceptable fare for either species.

Not so. Which brings me back to my original question:

Q: Did you ever wonder what, exactly, separates a cat food product from its canine varietal?

A: It’s an important question not just because there are yahoos out there willing to feed their pet anything or because you may one day find yourself in a pinch (Can I feed Fluffy some of Fido’s food or do I have to go shopping right now?), but also because understanding the differences can help teach you a thing or two about your pets’ nutritional needs.

Consider the major points that differentiate dog foods from their feline counterparts:

#1 Palatability

Dogs and cats perceive food differently. For example, among other differences, cats don’t have the ability to taste anything sweet. Their reduced range for what they consider palatable helps explain why dog food doesn’t tend to attract cats as much as cat food does dogs.

#2 Vitamin A

Dogs have the ability to turn beta carotene into Vitamin A, a feat cats’ bodies can’t manage. That’s why Vitamin A must be supplied in cat food. While plenty of dog foods may contain additional vitamin A, they aren’t necessarily formulated to offer the amounts a cat requires for a lifetime of optimum health. A variety of non-specific symptoms and disease states can result when cats don’t receive sufficient levels of Vitamin A in their food.

#3 Taurine

Taurine is considered an essential amino acid for cats. Therefore, all cats require it. Dogs, on the other hand, can make their own taurine, which is why many dog foods are deficient in this nutrient. If a cat is fed a canine diet lacking sufficient levels of taurine, blindness and a heart disease called hypertrophic cardiomyopathy are the most common outcomes.

Note: Taurine deficiency also happens when cats eat a fish-only diet, since fish meat is largely deficient in this amino acid. Which is why you might’ve heard that tuna is "bad" for cats (but isn’t unless you’re not feeding an otherwise balanced diet).

#4 Arachidonic acid

Arachidonic acid is a fatty acid dogs can build themselves. Cats, on the other hand, require the real thing. Cats who eat dog foods low in arachidonic acid levels will suffer a variety of nonspecific symptoms.

#5 Protein

Total protein levels in dog foods tend to be lower than for cat foods. This represents another significant reason not to feed our felines food that’s meant for dogs. Though some dog foods do offer very high levels of protein, most don’t offer the percentage of protein our carnivorous cats require.

In recent years, much has been made of the protein quality and quantity due our cats as part of their normal nutritional requirements. In academic circles, this topic is hotly debated. Let it suffice to say, however, that the protein requirements of obligate carnivores like cats are superior to those of dogs and that cats who consume dog-level protein levels on a regular basis will fail to thrive at rates comparable with their peers.

Q: So is it truly terrible to feed your cat the dog stuff if you happen to run out and the shops are all shuttered?

A: Well… no, not really. As long as a) your cat will eat it, b) it’s temporary, and c) your cat is otherwise healthy, dog food is unlikely to harm your cat one bit.

Q: But how about your dog?

A: From the above five points, we’ve effectively established that cats can’t live off dog foods but dogs can eat the cat stuff until the cows come home. Theoretically, anyway.

But while a dog can live on cat food alone, anyone who’s tried it will likely agree that it’s not an advisable activity. The caloric density, high protein levels, and heavy doses of fat aren’t ideally suited to all canine gastrointestinal tracts –– much less to their waistlines.

Obesity is probably the worst thing most dogs will get from eating the kitty stuff, but diarrhea, vomiting, and even potentially life-threatening pancreatitis are possible when you feed cat food to dogs (for some sensitive dogs, even after one single meal).

The moral of the story? Dog food is for dogs and cat food is for cats and [almost] never should the twain converge. In fact, if you’re that hard up for your pet’s food, consider a small amount of bland “human food” as an alternative (if you already know what works)… or get out of your jammies and run to the convenience store. What a concept!

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How Much Exercise Does My Dog Need?

Dog trainers and behaviorists tell dog owners all the time that dogs need exercise. A bored dog who doesn’t get enough exercise is more apt to get into trouble. With exercise, a dog left alone will be happier taking a good long nap instead of chewing, digging, or barking.

What is Considered Exercise?

Before talking about how much exercise your dog needs, let’s decide what should be considered exercise. A very simple definition is if an activity causes your dog to breathe hard, that can be considered exercise.

So, for example, taking my three 40 to 50 pound dogs for a three mile walk is a good outing but it’s not exercise because it doesn’t cause them to breathe hard. (If the weather is hot and the dogs pant because of the temperature, that’s a totally different thing.)

However, if my friend takes her two Papillons for that same walk – same distance and walking speed – it would be considered exercise. Her dogs have much shorter legs and the dogs have to work harder to maintain the speed and cover the distance.

With my dogs, however, retrieving a ball or toy, out in the yard where they can run hard, is good exercise. Dashing back and forth, jumping to catch the toy, and playing with each other will get them breathing hard.

To determine what is exercise for your dog, you’ll have to watch him. Does a walk in the morning and evening when it’s cool get him breathing hard? Or should the two of you go jogging instead? Does your dog like to retrieve toys or would he rather go swimming? Just as exercise for you should be enjoyable, so should his exercise.

How Much?

There is no set rule as to how much exercise any given dog needs on a daily basis. If your dog is a couch potato, it won’t take much to get him breathing hard and tired. My three herding breed dogs, who are very fit and well-muscled, need a good hour each and every day, at a minimum.

Take a look at how much daily exercise your dog gets now and gradually increase it. Please note that I said to do this gradually. A sudden increase in exercise could cause sore muscles or an injury.

Be sure to vary the exercise. For example, if you like to jog, maybe the two of you can go jogging two or three times a week, then have your dog swim one day, and on the other days the two of you can play retrieving games.

If your dog hasn’t been participating in a regular exercise program, take him to the vet for a quick exam first to make sure it’s okay for him to begin exercising. If your dog is a little older, do that too. My oldest dog, Bashir, is nine years old and I just took him in for his annual exam even though he’s been exercising regularly. I just wanted to make sure everything was okay.

Your Individual Dog

Just as every person has his or her own exercise needs, so does your dog. Increase the exercise program slowly and watch for soreness or injuries.

Watch your dog as you begin exercising. If he gets hot or tired, stop, give him some water and let him recover. Then take it a little slower the next time.

If you have a puppy, talk to your veterinarian about what exercises your puppy can go. Avoid repetitive exercise on hard surfaces – especially running and jumping – as these could cause damage to your puppy’s bones and joints.

Your old dog needs a gentle exercise program. Swimming is often very good for older joints.

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Contemplating the Concept Of “Human Grade” Pet Foods

Do you ever wander the aisles of your local pet food store, deep in contemplation? I do. I can’t help but marvel at the miracle of modern pet care and the thousands of products our collective pet obsession has spawned.

Awestruck as I always am in these situations (I don’t go to these places often!), my veterinary side sometimes wins out and I’ll find myself thinking about the many labeling claims made on pet food. Of these, none is more impressive than the term “human grade.”

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If you shop thoughtfully for your pets’ food, you may have wondered about this label too. What, exactly, does “human grade” mean? Take a guess; which of the following do you think is meant by “human grade”?

a) The food is tasty enough for humans
b) It’s healthy enough for humans
c) It’s safe enough for humans
d) All of the above
e) None of the above

Yes, the last choice wins, which partially explains why I’ve always thought of “human grade” as a murky designation. It’s even more so given the FDA’s historically lax regulation of pet foods (especially when it comes to safety).

Then there’s the issue of labeling food for humans to consider. When even supermarket fare marketed for human consumption harbors controversy on the labeling of everything from “green,” “sustainable,” “grass fed” and “organic” to “heart healthy,” “low-calorie,” “sugar-free” and “lower fat,” can you blame me for being skeptical? I mean, if a Dorito can be considered “human grade,” the term probably doesn’t mean all that much, right?

All kidding aside, the question remains: what exactly makes a pet food worthy of the “human grade” moniker? So let’s try this again. Is the term “human grade” determined by:

a) The digestibility of the ingredients?
b) The lack of “fillers” and “by-products”?
c) An abundance of laboratory testing for ensured wholesomeness?
d) All of the above
e) None of the above

OK, so that was another trick question. Choice e) wins again.

No, “human grade” doesn’t mean that your pet’s food isn’t full of the standard stuff you might consider “fillers.” It doesn’t say anything about by-products either. And it certainly doesn’t mean it’s automatically better for your pets than any of the other foods out there.

“Human grade” really means that the ingredients were handled in accordance with safety standards the FDA requires for the foods we humans buy at the market. Not only are these foods a) made with human-grade or human-quality ingredients, the finished product itself must be b) made in a production facility that meets all the criteria required for any human food facility.

In other words, that beef carcass that fell off the line and had to get the floor goo washed off it, the “downer” cow that had to be culled because it was probably sick, the goods from the processing plant that failed its recent inspection … all of these are examples of ingredients regularly deemed acceptable for pet food, but which are not suitable for human consumption.

That’s because every ingredient in a product must be edible by people to be eligible for “human grade” status. Then there’s the processing facility itself to consider. If the facility doesn’t meet all the sanitation specifications for facilities that produce food for sale to humans, it can’t label itself “human grade.”

The trouble is that there’s no formal legal definition of the term “human grade.” Despite this hiccup, the FDA is OK with the term’s use on pet foods as long as the food meets other ingredient and processing criteria.

For some consumers that’s great. But for me, human grade isn’t necessarily all it’s chalked up to be. After all, I’ve seen some pretty awful pet food cooked up in human kitchens. I’ve also come across some fantastic fare that couldn’t earn a “human grade” label because there were beaks and feet in there.

Nothing wrong with beaks and feet, I say. After all, if a Frito and a Twinkie can be considered human grade just because the ingredients are roughly edible, I can’t see why anyone should quibble with the nutritional content of feathers. (Not as long as they’re handled with care and included in a formula that’s nutritionally balanced, that is.)

What does get to me, though, is the fact that human-grade sanitation levels aren’t required for all pet food. (Kudos to “human grade” pet foods for that!) After all, when basic sanitation isn’t mandatory it calls into question the safety of pet food in general. And since there’s no due process for assessing the safety of your pet’s food beyond an informal label when human safety standards are met, it casts doubt on the entire system of pet food production…for me, at least.

Wow, that’s a lot of thinking for just one trip down the pet food aisle. I think I need an Oreo now. Or maybe a Ding-Dong …

How Much Do I Feed My “Fat and Hungry” Pet?

Got a fat pet? If so, chances are, he’s also what you might consider a “hungry” pet. No matter how much you feed him, he always seems to want more.

Which should come as no surprise. After all, our pets seem to be well aware that squeaky wheels get greased. And since “food is love” in so many U.S. households, the trend towards feeding pets as much as they’re keen to consume shows no signs of abating. (“But she’s hungry!”)

But here’s the thing: She isn’t actually hungry. She simply enjoys her food and would happily eat as much as you’re willing to shovel into her bowl. It’s a common problem which begs the question: If a pet isn’t capable of self-regulating the amount of food she takes in, how are you supposed to know how much to feed?

This is a tough question… a really tough one for most of my clients who claim to keep bottomless pits for pets. But it’s really not rocket science. So here’s my simple prescription for owners of young, healthy animals who face this frustrating dilemma:

If your pet is overweight, reduce the amount you feed her by a teensy bit every week until you can see the pounds start coming off. There’s no need to switch diets or add in any fancy supplements. All you have to do is start feeding a set portion of food and reduce the amount just a bit at a time.

(So you know, this gradual approach is especially crucial for cats. Cats can get very sick if they lose too much weight too quickly.)

Once you start to see the weight come off, maintain this food volume until she’s reached the weight your veterinarian has recommended as her target. Once there, you might find that giving a little more is perfectly fine. With just a little trial and error, you’ve got yourself a bona fide vet-approved weight loss plan.

Now all you have to do is add in the exercise. Which is pretty easy for most pets.

Some pets require more exercise, some less. Some demand extra attention to detail (fat cats, for example, can be hard to motivate). But all healthy pets –– without exception –– have the capacity to attain normal weights on this simple calorie-restricted regimen.

Makes sense, right? And yet it’s not so intuitive. Why? Because nothing rational stands up to this common utterance: “But she’s so hungry!”

At this point, it’s my role to calmly explain that the notion of “hunger” is something they should probably re-examine. After all, being “hungry” is a very different thing from wanting food.

We can all glean these basics from our own personal experience: Food tastes good, so we eat more. And we “overdo it” a lot (take, for example, Thanksgiving). We even experience severe, life-threatening effects related to our overindulgence. Yet, we continue to eat more.

From the medical point of view, we’ve also come to the understanding that a barrage of hormones are released when we’re hungry, when we smell food, and then when we eat it –– all of which affects our total caloric intake. But, if we eat too fast, our hormones don’t get the chance to deliver the memo in time. So we keep eating. And it seems that the memo can be similarly delayed when we consume certain kinds of food. So we keep eating… until the message gets through.

In the absence of clear directives, I’ll admit it can all be a bit confusing. Yet the upshot should be obvious: As a culture, we Americans are a whole lot less “hungry” than we think we are –– which really should help inform how we treat our pets. And yet, we clearly share a collective interpretation of our pets' hunger. Otherwise they wouldn’t be tipping the scales as they are at increasingly alarming rates.

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Summer Paw Care: 7 Essential Tips

Four-footed friends need special attention in summer. When the heat is on, make sure your dog’s paws stay cool and clean and that you prevent injury to their soft pads.

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Will you and your dog be spending more time outside in the warm days ahead? Summer is the time when you can be more active and really enjoy the fun of having a pet — going for long walks, vacationing together, perhaps swimming or playing catch with a Frisbee.

Your dog’s increased exposure to the outdoors does call for more vigilance on your part — particularly when it comes to those four feet. The condition of your dog’s paws is key to wellbeing. These tips can help ensure a happy and healthy summer for your dog.

1. Don’t let him sweat it. Did you know that when dogs become overheated, they sweat from their paws? While panting is the first clue that he needs to cool off, a trail of doggy footprints should also move you to action. Get your dog out of the sun and into an air-conditioned space, if possible. Then moisten a washcloth and wipe down his face and paws.
2. Walk when it’s cooler. Asphalt pavement and sandy beaches can get terribly hot when the temperature soars. With prolonged exposure to these surfaces, your pet’s paws could get scorched. To avoid that, take your dog to a pet-friendly park and walk him on the grass. The best times in summer for long walks and exercise are in the early morning and just before sunset, when it’s still light outside.
3. Keep nails trimmed. If you hear clickety-click every time your dog walks, his nails need to be shortened. Ask your veterinarian to show you how to trim them and to recommend the best tool for the job. If hair pokes out between the pads, that needs to be trimmed as well.
4. Look ahead. Keep your eyes peeled for broken glass and other sharp objects that could break the skin on your pet’s paws. According to the ASPCA, “Wounds that are smaller than a half inch in diameter can be cleaned with an antibacterial wash and wrapped with a light bandage. For deeper paw cuts, see the vet for treatment.”
5. Watch out for limping. Sometimes dogs in the countryside pick up a prickly burr that lodges itself in between paw pads. Tweezers may remove it. If your pet’s gait is off, inspect the paws for foreign objects and injuries indicated by swelling, redness, and discharges.
6. Check for cracks. Walking on hot, hard ground can dry your dog’s paws, which may lead to cracking. Examine his paw pads to make sure they’re soft. If not, moisturize them by rubbing in a little bit of petroleum jelly once a day.
7. Last licks. Dogs lick their paws for different reasons: For some, it relieves stress. For others, especially ones who take up the habit in summer, allergies may be the culprit. Contact with grass, weeds and pollen is a common source of irritation. And once your dog comes inside, tracking the substance into the house can prolong his discomfort. One way to combat that is to moisten a washcloth and wipe down paws after the walk.
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By following these tips, you and your dog can get the most out of the sultry season. As always, call your veterinarian if your dog is hurt or conditions worsen.

- Source: mypet.com

Top Summer Traumas for Pets

There are so many things to love about summer. Parades down Main Street, fireworks filling the night sky and camping beneath the stars, just to name a few. But while these warm-weather attractions might be fun for us humans, they can be frightening and even dangerous for pets. Here are a few tips on how to help your pet enjoy summertime festivities as much as you do.

THINGS THAT GO BANG!

Fireworks can be so upsetting for pets that more dogs and cats run away from home on the 4th of July than any other holiday. it's one of the most important times of year to make sure your pet is safe and secure. The Associated Humane Societies offer these recommendations for helping Fido or Fluffy stay put on Independence Day:

• Take your pet out for a walk before fireworks begin to exercise, relax and go "potty".
• Keep him inside during fireworks with the windows securely closed. He may even feel most comfortable in a small interior room. Be sure to remove any items that your pet could destroy, or that would be harmful if chewed or ingested.
• Make sure your pet is microchipped and that your information is up to date.
• If your pet is extremely sensitive to loud noises, talk to your veterinarian before the holiday weekend. He or she will offer ways to help alleviate your pet's fear and anxiety.

STORMY WEATHER

Summertime is thunderstorm season. For sensitive pets, storms can be terrifying. Whether they are scared of the light, the noise, the smells, or even the change in barometric pressure, a storm can set off a series of behaviors that can be dangerous for your phobic pet. Some pets may shake, drool, howl, bark and even lose bladder and bowel control.

Teach Fluffy that storms don't have to be scary. Move her to a windowless room or a basement where her exposure to the storm will be reduced, or distract her by playing a game with one of her favorite toys. You can even reserve special toys or treats for use only during a storm, so that your pet associates the frightening stimulus with a positive behavior. If thunder is the biggest issue, you could also consider investing in a white noise machine or turning on a bathroom fan to drown out some of the boom.

TENT CITY

There's no better time to dust off your camping gear, set out for the wilderness and sleep beneath the stars. But while the Great Outdoors may seem like an ideal vacation destination for Fido, remember that he will also be exposed to new and unfamiliar territory. Here are a few tips to make camping more fun for everyone:

• Purchase a pet first aid kit from a pet supply store, or make your own pet first aid kit. Even something as small as a bug bite or splinter can make for a very unhappy pooch if untreated.
• Bring the right food for Fido. While campfire fare might seem like a fun treat for your pets, ingestion of fatty foods can cause pancreatitis and other digestive issues, which even a first aid kit won't cure. Best bet, bring along his favorite pet food and keep the campfire treats to yourself.
• Respect your pet's physical limitations. Domesticated animals may seem like they simply can't wait to "run wild," but they can get as out of shape as the rest of us. So don't expect Fido to climb a mountain, hike miles of trails or swim across the entire lake.

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The best part of summer is spending time having fun with your pets. By thinking ahead, you can make sure that whatever you do this season, everyone has a great time—Fido and Fluffy included.

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5 Hot Tips for Summer Pet Care

Summertime is fun time, but hot weather makes for some unique summer pet care challenges. Although wild animals are well adapted to the elements, companion animals can be just as susceptible to extreme temperatures as their owners are. What does that mean for your pet? When the temperatures get extreme, pet safety should be top of mind. Here are 5 ways to stay safe while enjoying summer activities with your pet:

Respect the heat. Humans aren't the only animals that can find a hot summer day overwhelming. But unlike you, your pet has a limited ability to deal with the heat. Dogs release heat through their paw pads and by panting, while humans can sweat through all of the skin on their body. Dehydration can be a big problem for pets during the hot weather, too. According to the ASPCA, animals with flat faces—like Pugs and Persian cats—cannot pant as effectively, and are therefore more susceptible to heat stroke. You should also keep an eye on elderly or overweight pets or animals with heart and lung disease. In the summer, make certain that Fido and Fluffy always have access to plenty of fresh, cool water, and avoid letting them run around outside during the hottest parts of the day.

Keep bugs away—safely. Another summer pet safety issue is the presence of ticks and other summer insects. Not only can bugs carry diseases, but the ways people try to ward them off can also cause problems for your outdoor pet's health. Fertilizers and pesticides may help keep a lawn looking great, but they can be very dangerous for your pet. In the areas where your pets play, it's better to keep the grass cut short to reduce the presence of ticks and other insects. Also keep an eye out for fertilizer warnings on neighbors' lawns when walking your dog. Talk to your veterinarian about the best ways to protect your pet from fleas, ticks, and other insects that are more prevalent during the summer months.

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Beware of antifreeze. In the summertime, antifreeze can leak out of cars when they overheat, leaving puddles on the ground that your dog can easily lap up and swallow. The sweet taste of antifreeze is tempting to dogs and cats, but when this toxic substance is ingested, it's potentially lethal. Pay attention to your neighbors' cars and puddles on your street, and make sure your pets stay clear of it.

Find out if your pet needs sunscreen. Some pets, particularly those with short fine hair and pink skin, can be susceptible to sunburn. Talk to your veterinarian about which types of sunscreen are safest on your pet's skin, and follow up by routinely applying sunscreen as part of your summer routine. Do not use sunscreen or insect repellents that are not designed specifically for use on animals. The ASPCA says ingesting certain sunscreens can cause drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, excessive thirst and lethargy in pets.

Practice water safety. As with other aspects of summer pet care, water safety is all about thinking ahead. Although it's fun to bring your pet to the beach or pool to stay cool together, always keep a close eye on your pet when they're in or near the water. Even a strong swimmer could have trouble getting out of a pool, or get trapped by ropes and other obstacles. For more risky summer adventures with your dog, like boating, look into a doggie life preserver. It could prove to be an excellent investment for his safety.

Summer pet safety isn't hard, it just requires some thought and attention. Watch over your pet the way you would a small child—protect them from too much heat, sun, and other summer dangers—and everything should be just fine.

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