Keeping Your Dog in Shape

Like humans, when food intake is greater than energy output, a dog gains weight. Improper diet, inadequate exercise, genetic predisposition, and hormonal disorders -- like thyroid or pituitary problems -- are the main contributing factors to obesity in dogs. A dog whose body fat exceeds 20 percent of his total weight is described as obese.

"Overfeeding is the leading cause of obesity in dogs," says Dr. Richard Albrecht of the Millis Animal Hospital in St. Louis. If your dog is obese, you are responsible. You control what your dog eats. Work with your vet to create a diet plan that will restore your dog to her ideal weight.

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Being overweight can shorten a dog's life -- it puts a strain on the heart and other organs, stresses joints and ligaments, and creates a greater surgical risk. Obese dogs are also at increased risk for diabetes, breathing difficulties, and reproductive problems.

A dog under 2 years old who is overweight has a greater tendency to be obese its entire life. The sooner you address your pup's weight problem, the longer your dog is likely to live.

Some medications can affect weight gain. Ask your vet about such possible side effects if your dog is on medication.

In the Genes
Certain breeds have a genetic predisposition to being overweight. They need more consistent exercise and dietary supervision because of these genetic tendencies.

Breeds with a lower incidence of obesity can still gain too much weight; genetic predisposition is just one contributing factor.

The following breeds are commonly acknowledged to have a genetic predisposition to obesity.

Basset hounds
Beagles
Dachshunds
Cairn terriers
Cocker spaniels
Collies
Labrador retrievers
Shetland sheepdogs
Evaluate Your Dog
Once you know what is normal for your dog, you can monitor her size and make minor adjustments to diet and exercise accordingly. Your vet can also help you keep track of and evaluate your dog's weight. To determine whether your dog is overweight, check these five areas:

Feel the ribs. There should be a thin layer of fat covering the ribs, but you should be able to feel them. If you can see the ribs, your dog is too skinny. If you can't feel the ribs, your pet is obese.
Observe and feel your dog's spine, shoulders and hips. Again, a small amount of fat should comfortably cover these parts. If you can see the bones, your dog is too skinny. When you can't feel the bones at all, you know your pet is too plump.

Look at your dog from above and look for her waist just behind her ribs. Protruding bones or an extreme waist indentation are signs of excessive thinness. Should the area between the ribs and hips be wider than either the ribs or the hips, then your dog is obese.
Get a side view of your dog to check out the abdominal tuck, the area between the ribcage and the rear. Deep-chested breeds, like greyhounds, naturally have a distinctive abdominal tuck. A drastic abdominal tuck indicates that your dog is too thin; overweight animals have no abdominal tuck.
Getting Fido Fit

If you think your dog is overweight, check with your vet to rule out hormonal or other health problems. Then, you and your vet can determine your dog's optimum weight and develop a diet and exercise plan for your dog. Your vet will likely want you to check in regularly to monitor progress.

The basic weight reduction strategies for dogs are:

Eliminate snacks, treats, and table scraps.
Increase exercise.
Decrease portions.
Switch to a lower-calorie dog food.
To give yourself an incentive to help your dog stick to his diet plan, take a "before" picture of your dog and take several more as he loses weight. You will be delighted when you compare the "before" and "after" pictures.

Diet Tips
Aiming for one to two percent of body weight per week is considered a safe weight-loss goal for a dog. Losing more than two percent of body weight per week is too much.

When choosing dry foods, consider that the fat content of dry food should range between 12 and 16 percent. Twelve percent is better for sedentary dogs, but active dogs can tolerate 16 percent fat.
Frequent feeding can make dieting more tolerable for your dog. Try two to four small meals throughout the day.

Keep an overweight dog from eating other pets' food by feeding him separately.
Before you prepare a meal or sit down to one, feed your dog.
Provide plenty of fresh, cool water at all times.

Examine near the base of your dog's tail. This area should be smooth with a slight covering of fat. If the bones stick out, your pet is too thin, and if you can't feel the bones, your dog is overweight.
There is no room in a weight-reducing program for snacks, treats, or table scraps. Your dog is getting all the calories she needs from her consistent, well-balanced meals. "Give your dog a dry, hard kernel of dog food instead of treats to reward her," suggests St. Louis vet Dr. Richard Albrecht.
Remove food bowls promptly after feeding. An empty bowl can set off scavenging behavior. Begging or sniffing around an empty bowl does not mean that your dog is hungry.
Everyone in the household has to stick with the program. Explain to family members that the most loving thing you can do for your dog is to help him attain and maintain a healthy weight.
Exercise Tips

Exercise gets oxygen to cells, keeps muscles toned and joints flexible, strengthens respiratory and circulatory systems, and aids in digestion.

Exercising with your dog is a great way to give her the attention she craves. A dog who is receiving enough attention is less likely to seek treats.

Follow these guidelines for a successful exercise plan.

One long walk a day, lasting 20 to 60 minutes, should keep your adult dog svelte and healthy. A dog who has access to a run or a yard should still be walked daily (on a leash).
Build up your dog's stamina gradually. Start with little strolls -- around the block or to the corner and back -- and slowly increase the length of the trip.

Give your dog as much walking time as you can spare -- this is an exercise whose benefit is shared. Both you and your dog can stay sleek by walking briskly.
If your dog begins panting heavily, stop and let him rest. Overexertion can lead to heat stroke.
Do not let puppies and young dogs overdo it. Their bones are too soft and spongy to withstand the impact. Depending on the breed, pups under 18 to 24 months should not participate in the jumps of formal agility training or hop in and out of pickup trucks. It is too stressful to their bones, muscles, and ligaments.

When puppies play with other puppies, they tend to tire out at the same time. Playing with an older dog may cause a puppy to play past her limit and exhaust herself, making her more prone to injury. Supervise and limit puppy and adult dog frolicking.
If your dog suffers from a disease that limits his range of motion, it is just as vital to provide adequate exercise time at the dog's pace. Conditions like hip dysplasia and arthritis benefit from regular exercise, and activity helps your pet maintain his ideal weight.
Two dogs in a yard will help each other stay in shape by romping and playing together. A lone dog is more likely to lie around.
Active dogs are less likely to eat to relieve boredom or stress.
Good Habits
Follow these hints to maximize the effectiveness of your fitness strategy.

Provide fresh, cool water at all times.

Consult with your vet to find a well-balanced food that meets your dog's nutritional needs.
Remember that you control your dog's intake. Your dog cannot go to the fridge and make a hoagie. Have a family policy about feeding your dog and stick to it.
Never feed your dog from the table.

Fine-tune meal size to suit your dog by beginning at the low end of the recommended amount on the package and adjusting the portion to meet your dog's activity level. Your dog is an individual; her needs might vary somewhat from the package instructions.

Reward your dog's good behavior with love and attention instead of treats. When overcome with a generous impulse, treat your dog to toys as opposed to snacks. (If you can't break the snack habit, be sure that treats make up less than 10 percent of your dog's daily caloric intake.)

Dogs who spend more of their time outdoors will expend more calories than dogs who stay mostly indoors. Compensating for cold temperatures and increased activity requires more nutrients than lying adoringly across your feet.
After spaying or neutering, your dog may be a bit less active, which can mean he doesn't need to eat as much. Also, if your pet feels less of a compulsion to roam, that means you have to be more proactive about exercise.

Is Your Dog Too Fat?

If you love your dog and want it to live a long, healthy life, it's important to keep an eye on your dog's weight. Sadly, obesity is quickly becoming one of the biggest medical problems veterinarians see with their patients. It is estimated that 45 percent of all pet dogs are now considered overweight or obese. Dogs with weight problems live shorter lives, have more joint and breathing problems, and are prone to develop diabetes. Here are some tips to help you determine if your pet is overweight along with a few ideas on how to solve the problem.

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Pay close attention. Too often pet owners don't realize their pet is gaining weight. The first step to determine if your dog is overweight is to look at it from above. A dog of ideal weight will have an hourglass shape with its chest and hips being slightly wider than its waist.

Feel your dog's ribs. Take your hands and gently press in on your dog's rib cage. You should be able to feel the ribs with gentle pressure. This means that your dog has the right amount of fat over its chest. If you can't feel the ribs without pressing hard, then your dog is carrying too many pounds. Keep in mind that with long-haired dogs, you have to put your hands on the dog to feel what's going on underneath all that fur.

Move to the hips. After checking your dog's ribs, move your hands along the sides of your dog's body until you come to its hips. You should feel a tucked-in area (the waist) between your dog's rib cage and hips. If it feels like a solid tube, your dog is overweight. Also, you should be able to feel your dog's hip bones with gentle pressure.

Check the undercarriage. Take your hand and move it from your dog's chest to its groin. You should feel a tucked-in area just behind your dog's chest and before you get to the back legs. Again, if your dog feels like a solid mass or if you find any flaps of dangling fat, your dog is definitely tipping the scales.

Weigh your dog. Your veterinarian will weigh your dog every year at its annual examination, but to keep things under control, you should weigh your dog at home every month. If your dog is too big for your bathroom scale, weigh yourself first, then pick up your dog and stand on the scale. Write down the results and watch for any changes. With really large breeds that are hard to pick up, you can probably talk with your veterinarian and run by once a month to use the office scale.

Increase exercise. If your pet is on the chubby side, the best thing you can do is to increase its level of exercise. For really overweight or older dogs, you might have to take things slow at first, but increasing daily walks will help considerably. You don't want to suddenly start jogging with a dog if your dog has been a couch potato the last few months. Most importantly, check with your veterinarian before you start your dog on any exercise regimen.

Get tips for running with your dog.

Stop meal madness. Don't let your dog have free access to food all day. Some dogs will only eat when they are hungry, but the majority will gobble up every bit of food they can and then ask for more. So, don't just leave a bowl of food sitting out and let your dog help itself. And, if you do give your dog regular meals and Fido doesn't happen to finish one, take the food away and use it another time. Don't let your dog linger or fall asleep with its nose near a kibble-filled bowl. And make sure everyone in the family knows that treats or table scraps are off limits.

Determine goal weight. Find out how much your dog is supposed to weigh from your veterinarian, then come up with a plan to help your pup lose 1-2 percent of its body weight per week. Learn how many calories it will take to reach the goal weight and then offer the food in two to four small meals a day. And measure food carefully. Don't just scoop some food out of a bin and toss it into your dog's bowl. Use a measuring cup to give your dog the precise amount of food for its caloric needs.

Read the label. Not all "diet" pet foods are the same and some might not be the best choice for your tubby pet. Look for a pet food that's high in protein, low in calories, and low in fat. Your veterinarian can help you find the right brand for your dog's specific needs and tell you the right amount to feed.  Don't follow the feeding guidelines on the back of the package.

Consider the stages of life. As pets get older, they no longer have the same caloric requirements they did when they were puppies or active youngsters. It is also a myth that after a dog is spayed or neutered that they will automatically gain weight. If you keep your dog on a regular exercise program, it won't gain a pound after neutering. And never forget that the more you exercise your dog, the healthier both of you will become.

7 Important Questions to Ask Before Selecting a Dog Day Care

So you've made the decision to find a doggy day care for your pup. You will be able to go to work or your yearly family get-together without feeling guilty for leaving your canine companion cooped up. It's a win-win situation! But how do you choose the right day care for your pooch?
BY CAITLIN SCOTT
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Amy Rosenthal, owner of Minneapolis-based Metro Dogs Daycare & Boarding, gave us the scoop on Doggy Day Care 101. No matter what city you live in, Rosenthal recommends doing a little digging on potential dog day cares to ensure you are selecting the best place for your pet. Here's what to ask before taking Fido to day care.

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1. Can I have a tour?
Ask the day care owner or manager for a tour of the facilities. It's a good idea to see that the environment your dog will be hanging out in is clean and properly sanitized. You'll also want to learn about the safety precautions the owner has put in place.

"We have solid fences, as opposed to chain-link ones. With chain-link fences, dogs can see each other and they might try to fight through the fence," Rosenthal explains. "Of course, if a day care has a chain-link fence, that doesn't mean the day care isn't safe -- these are just the things that you, as a dog owner, want to look out for."

Top Dog Day Care Safety Features:

Ventilation. Make sure fresh air is getting to the dogs, whether it's through open doors or a fresh-air exchange system.
Proper fencing.
Proper gating. Double gating provides a space for the dog to get acclimated to the play area before it joins the other dogs inside, which can improve safety.
Safe floors. Rubber and epoxy floors provide better grip.
2. How does the day care separate the dogs?
Large doggy day cares typically split dogs up into different playrooms based on a variety of factors. "Some facilities may have all dogs playing in one room," Rosenthal says.  "We like to separate the dogs based on size, temperament, and play style, because we feel that is important."

Rosenthal reminds dog owners to stay on the safe side, even if your small pup routinely plays with larger breeds at the local dog park. "The dog park environment and the day care environment are very different things. In a dog park the dog can run and escape, but in a day care environment that has four walls, you don't have that."

3. What is the dog-to-human ratio?
Some states have a set dog-to-human ratio for dog day cares, and others don't. Ask the dog day care owner about possible state guidelines. Both Rosenthal and International Boarding and Pet Care Services Association (a national organization that's involved in day care) recommend a ratio of 15 dogs per one human as a safe standard. The IBPSA also notes that allowances are often made for more active groups, where a ratio of one staffer per 10 dogs is desired, or less active groups, where 20 dogs per staffer is adequate.

4. Are there activities for my dog?
Rosenthal encourages dog owners to ask about the activities the dogs will do throughout the day. Is there any kind of training happening? If so, you might see improvements in your pup's behavior! "We do training and behavior modifications inside the playrooms," she says. "When the dogs go home, we often hear from owners that their dogs are behaving better, because we don't just have a doggy free-for-all. We like to work with the dogs to improve their behavior."

5. How do you handle toys?
Some dogs can be very toy-aggressive. If you know your dog isn't going to get along with another dog or dogs with toys, Amy suggests that dog owners bring the issue to the attention of the day care managers -- they will keep a careful eye on your pup.

Learn how to deal with your dominant dog.

6. How do you handle treats and food?
Some dog day cares use treats to reward good behavior, and some don't. Ask the day care manager about their use of treats and be sure to tell them if your dog displays aggressive behavior around food.
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Learn how to manage your dog's aggression.

7. Do you offer boarding?
If boarding is something that you will be interested in down the road, ask if the day care has boarding options available. "It's always going to be easier for a dog to acclimate to an environment if he's already been there playing," Rosenthal says. "It won't be as stressful for your dog to spend the night if he has already been there before."

How To Give Your Dog Medications

When your dog needs medication, it's up to you to keep it healthy. Here are guidelines for giving pills and liquid meds to your pet

Give Your Dog a Pill

Giving your dog a pill doesn't have to turn into a wrestling match with your pet. Here are some safe and simple ways to give your dog medication.

Setting the Stage
A good way to restrain your dog while administering medication is to hold it between your arm and chest, securing its neck. Then, if possible, have a helper open the dog's mouth and insert the pill. It also helps if you position your dog on a table just as your veterinarian would do in the office. Make sure the dog has no risk of falling off, but having it off the floor will make it a lot easier to handle.

1. Open up! To get your dog to open its mouth, grasp its muzzle from the top. Then, push firmly in and up on its top lip just behind its canine teeth until your pet opens its mouth. Try to roll your dog's lip inward over its teeth. That way your pet will keep its mouth open to avoid biting down on its lip.
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3. Place pill at back of throat. Holding the pill between the index and middle finger of one hand, apply pressure upward with the thumb of your other hand on the roof of your dog's mouth. Push down on the dog's lower jaw with the thumb and two free fingers of your "pill hand" while sliding the tablet deep into the throat with your middle finger.
4. Hold dog's mouth closed. Remove your fingers and hold your dog's mouth shut. Thump sharply underneath its chin with your finger, or try rubbing its throat downward gently.
5. Did it go down? If your dog licks its nose while you're holding its mouth shut, it probably has swallowed the medication. If the pill did not go down its throat, it will usually spit it out after you release it mouth.

Give Your Dog Liquid Meds

Patience is the key to giving your dog liquid medication.

1. Steady the head. If possible, have someone else steady your dog's head. Tilting your pet's head slightly to one side (opposite where you're pouring in the liquid) makes administering the medicine easier.
2.  Pull out the lower lip and pour. Pull out your pet's lower lip at one corner to form a pouch and slowly pour the liquid into that pocket. Hold your pet's mouth shut for a moment until it swallows. The liquid will seep between your pet's teeth and it will automatically swallow the medicine. Be sure your pet's head remains horizontal so the liquid won't run into its air passages.

Other Medication Methods

If your dog hates the process of pill insertion, you can try disguising pills as special treats -- in ground meat, cheese, etc. Or, look for special pill pockets at your local veterinarian or pet store. They are specially designed treats with a cavity where you can hide a treat.

Mixing drugs (either liquid or powder) with your pet's rations is not recommended. When a drug is specifically designed to be mixed with food, adding fish oil or chicken fat can help camouflage the taste. Or, mix the medicine with a small portion of your pet's food and give it those rations first, so it gets the full dosage. Always check with your veterinarian about what foods you can mix with drugs and what time of day is best for administering a specific medicine.

Also, never empty the powder out of capsules or grind up coated tablets to make them more palatable. Doing so can keep your pet from absorbing the medicine properly.

If your pet resents being given mediations, don't worry. Sooner or later, persistence will pay off. But don't start a wrestling match with your pet, or it will become much harder to treat in the future. Also, never be tempted to give your pet medication intended for humans. Give your pet only medications that are prescribed.

Why Do Dogs Have Wet Noses and Whiskers?

Ever wonder why your dog's nose is wet? It's usually nasal secretions that come from licking their noses with their tongue and even from sweat -- yes, dogs sweat from the nose and their paw pads.

Some owners get concerned when their dog's nose is dry, but this is not always a sign of problem. In fact, if your dog's nose is dry but not cracked or bleeding, it's probably perfectly normal. However, if your dog is showing other signs of illness, it's a good idea to see your veterinarian. Dry nose can indicate fever or dehydration. It might also be an infection or an autoimmune disorder, especially if the change is sudden.

While we're talking noses, you might be wondering why your dog has whiskers. Whiskers are also known as sinus hairs, because the base of the hair is embedded into the that contains many nerve fibers. These special hairs detect pressure and can aid in movement by enhancing a dog's ability to sense its surroundings.


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How Much Do I Feed My “Fat and Hungry” Pet?

Got a fat pet? If so, chances are, he’s also what you might consider a “hungry” pet. No matter how much you feed him, he always seems to want more.

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Which should come as no surprise. After all, our pets seem to be well aware that squeaky wheels get greased. And since “food is love” in so many U.S. households, the trend towards feeding pets as much as they’re keen to consume shows no signs of abating. (“But she’s hungry!”)

But here’s the thing: She isn’t actually hungry. She simply enjoys her food and would happily eat as much as you’re willing to shovel into her bowl. It’s a common problem which begs the question: If a pet isn’t capable of self-regulating the amount of food she takes in, how are you supposed to know how much to feed?

This is a tough question… a really tough one for most of my clients who claim to keep bottomless pits for pets. But it’s really not rocket science. So here’s my simple prescription for owners of young, healthy animals who face this frustrating dilemma:

If your pet is overweight, reduce the amount you feed her by a teensy bit every week until you can see the pounds start coming off. There’s no need to switch diets or add in any fancy supplements. All you have to do is start feeding a set portion of food and reduce the amount just a bit at a time.

(So you know, this gradual approach is especially crucial for cats. Cats can get very sick if they lose too much weight too quickly.)

Once you start to see the weight come off, maintain this food volume until she’s reached the weight your veterinarian has recommended as her target. Once there, you might find that giving a little more is perfectly fine. With just a little trial and error, you’ve got yourself a bona fide vet-approved weight loss plan.

Now all you have to do is add in the exercise. Which is pretty easy for most pets.

Some pets require more exercise, some less. Some demand extra attention to detail (fat cats, for example, can be hard to motivate). But all healthy pets –– without exception –– have the capacity to attain normal weights on this simple calorie-restricted regimen.

Makes sense, right? And yet it’s not so intuitive. Why? Because nothing rational stands up to this common utterance: “But she’s so hungry!”

At this point, it’s my role to calmly explain that the notion of “hunger” is something they should probably re-examine. After all, being “hungry” is a very different thing from wanting food.

We can all glean these basics from our own personal experience: Food tastes good, so we eat more. And we “overdo it” a lot (take, for example, Thanksgiving). We even experience severe, life-threatening effects related to our overindulgence. Yet, we continue to eat more.

From the medical point of view, we’ve also come to the understanding that a barrage of hormones are released when we’re hungry, when we smell food, and then when we eat it –– all of which affects our total caloric intake. But, if we eat too fast, our hormones don’t get the chance to deliver the memo in time. So we keep eating. And it seems that the memo can be similarly delayed when we consume certain kinds of food. So we keep eating… until the message gets through.

In the absence of clear directives, I’ll admit it can all be a bit confusing. Yet the upshot should be obvious: As a culture, we Americans are a whole lot less “hungry” than we think we are –– which really should help inform how we treat our pets. And yet, we clearly share a collective interpretation of our pets' hunger. Otherwise they wouldn’t be tipping the scales as they are at increasingly alarming rates.

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10 Best Supplements for Dogs and Cats

Pet supplements sales enjoyed double-digit growth for many years. Market watchers expect pet supplements to top $1.6 billion in sales by 2017. Yet, an early 2013 report shows some slowing as pet supplement manufacturers battle it out in a regulatory gray area between pet drugs and pet foods.

With pet treat sales staying strong throughout the recession, many manufacturers are now eyeing nutraceutical treats – in other words, treats with supplements in them.

Personally, I prefer to give straight supplements to my pets. For me, the treat angle feels like hype.
Veterinary Skeptics

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Veterinarians remain tough customers in the pet supplement market. Demanding detailed information on ingredients and scientific proof to back up claims, veterinarians often approach supplements with a healthy dose of skepticism.

So, what do veterinarians expect to see in the supplements or herbs pets take?
Safety (not toxic, no dangerous side-effects)
Known mechanisms of action (how they work in the body)
Evidence of effectiveness (through scientific studies)
10 Best Supplements for Pets

According to Narda G. Robinson, director of the Colorado State University Center for Comparative and Integrative Pain Medicine, the following 10 supplements or herbs meet these three criteria.

As with all medicines, supplements, or herbs, discuss their use in your specific pet with your veterinarian. Even safe supplements can cause minor side-effects and can adversely interact with other drugs your pet takes. For example, too much Omega-3 fatty acids too fast can cause diarrhea and valerian can interact with anesthesia or pain medications.
Omega-3 fatty acids address inflammation, brain health and gastrointestinal toxicity related to cancer treatments.
Milk thistle can treat acute and chronic hepatitis (liver inflammation). It also helps protect organs from the effects of radiation, chemotherapy, other drugs and chronic diseases.
Glucosamine promotes cartilage health and reduces the release of inflammatory triggers. It’s often used as part of comprehensive pain-control measures in pets with joint problems, such as arthritis.
Lavender, diffused in oil form, helps calm dogs and is often used to treat travel upset.
Botswellia shows promise in treating arthritis and inflammatory bowel disease.
Theanine (from tea) helps the body better neutralize free radicals. It also aids in relaxation for anxious pets
Valerian reduces stress, anxiety and insomnia in pets.
Probiotics can help pets with inflammation, allergies, infections, diarrhea and other conditions by promoting “good” bacteria in the intestines.
CoQ10 is an antioxidant that lessens toxicities in the body, especially relating to the heart.
Curcumin offers anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer effects.
Share Your Experiences

Which supplements or herbs do you give to your pets? Did you choose them on your own or with your veterinarian’s help?
References

“Pet Supplements and Nutraceutical Treats in the U.S., 4th Edition,” Packaged Facts, January 28, 2013.

Narda Robinson, DO, DVM, MS, Fellow American Academic of Medical Acupuncture, Diplomate American Board of Medical Acupuncture: “The 10 Best and 10 Worst Supplements or Herbs for Small Animals,” American Animal Hospital Association 2012 Conference, March 15, 2012.

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The Great Feeding Debate: Free Versus Scheduled Feeding

Among the many decisions we pet owners have to make is how (or, more accurately, when) we want to feed our pets. It never really seemed like a big deal to me, frankly. My childhood dog, Sophie (a unique-looking Doberman-Airedale mix), had full, constant access to her giant bowl of food with no issues.

This method of feeding is known as free feeding. As it turns out, the free versus scheduled feeding debate is a hot one. A lot of people - owners, vets, trainers, behaviorists, scientists - have very strong opinions about which is the right way to go. I honestly don’t have a one-size-fits-all conclusion to share; I think it’s important to think through the pros and cons of each method to figure out what works for your pet(s).
Free Feeding - Pros
Pets can eat as much as they need; they are never left feeling famished between meals.
They never have to miss a meal if you’re running late; you don’t have to worry if you can’t get home right at feeding time.
There are less food-guarding issues - because they always have access to food and don’t have to worry about when their next meal is coming, it takes the value away from the food.
Good for active pets (or pets that have varied levels of activity) because if your pet needs to eat more calories on a certain day to account for extra calories burned, he can.
Some studies have shown cats in particular eat best like this (but, of course, there are also some that contradict that)
Free Feeding - Cons
The number one con with free feeding is that it puts a lot of pets at risk for over-eating and obesity.
It can be hard to do in multiple pet households (especially if they are on different food).
Because the pet eats throughout the day, it can cause difficulty with potty training (you can’t anticipate their need for trips outside as easily as you can with a scheduled meal time).
Depending on the environment and your set up, food left out can sometimes promote an unhygienic situation.

Tip: Keep bowl in area you can see to observe how much your pets eat.
Scheduled Meals - Pros
You can control the portions easily.
It gives your pet structure to his day, and in the home hierarchy (he knows you are the giver of food).
It helps with potty training, as you have a good sense of when he will need to go outside after a meal.
It helps keeps things clean (both in the sense that you don’t have food sitting out, and visually, since you can put the bowls out of sight between meals).
It helps you more easily notice when your pet’s appetite makes a sudden shift (thereby alerting you to a possible sickness early).
Scheduled Meals - Cons
You have to be home to feed your pet (although, there are automatic feeders on the market you can get to address this).
It might encourage your pet to gulp or wolf down his food since he anticipates it so greatly.
It might lead to food-guarding--if he only gets access to food for a little while twice a day, those times can possibly become very high-value and high-stress.

I’m not pushing you one way or another, but you might find that, after reading this, you’d like to switch your style. Here are a few tips to make it an easy transition:
Moving from scheduled to free feeding

If you want to switch from scheduled to free feeding, there are a couple ways you could do it (consult your vet if you have any concerns):

The first approach is to fill up the bowl with as much as it will hold. Let your pet eat his fill, even if it’s a really big amount. Fill up the bowl whenever it gets empty. In a day or two, your pet will begin to understand the new approach and his body and appetite will probably even out (although it might not, so do pay attention). If it doesn’t even out, free-feeding may not be for him.

A second approach is to fill up the bowl with a pre-measured amount. Once your pet walks away from the bowl, refill it with the same amount. And again, it might take your pet a few days to understand what’s happening, but he should even out.
Moving from free to scheduled feeding

If you want to move from free feeding to scheduled feeding:
Look up the appropriate daily amount to feed your pet (either on the packaging or on the company’s website)
Divide this amount by two. Offer one portion in the morning and one in the evening.
When it’s mealtime, keep the food bowl down for 15-20 minutes. If your pet is no longer eating (or never started), take the bowl up. 

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Note: If he doesn’t eat, don’t panic; it will take him a few meals to figure out what’s happening.

Resist the urge to double the portion or add stuff into the bowl (like gravy) at the next meal. It’s important not to teach him that if he holds out long enough, he’ll get special treats. Don’t coddle him; he will not starve. Keep offering meals twice a day, and he will eventually eat when he’s hungry enough.

- See more at: http://www.embracepetinsurance.com/pet-care/free-feeding-vs-scheduled-feeding#sthash.5UBvZNVu.dpuf

Food Allergies in Dogs

Food allergies compromise approximately 10% of all dog allergies and, because of this low percentage, they may have historically been dismissed or only mentioned in passing by many vets. However, as more and more pet parents become proactive about their dogs’ health, conversations about food allergies are happening more frequently in vets' offices.

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Most often, food allergies are caused by protein in the pet’s food eliciting a reaction in the immune system. Often, the protein source is animal-based (meats, eggs, or dairy), but sometimes a carbohydrate source can be involved too. The most common ingredients that dogs have allergies to include beef, chicken, eggs, milk, fish, horsemeat, potatoes, soy, corn, wheat gluten, or additives.
Symptoms

The most common clinical signs of a food allergy are severe itching, scratching, and chewing. Small red bumps, pustules, and infection can sometimes accompany itching. In dogs, the paws, flank, groin, neck, and ears are commonly affected. Dogs with food allergies often have recurrent ear infections. It is rare for a puppy to develop true food allergies, as the pet has to be exposed to the allergen repeatedly.

Food allergies can also present with gastrointestinal components. GI signs include chronic vomiting (typically not with an acute onset), diarrhea or loose stools, belching, and frequent bowel movements and/or flatulence. GI signs do fluctuate a bit more than skin problems, but a long history of “troubled GI system” is not uncommon. Pets may suffer from both skin and GI symptoms. Unlike canine atopy and flea allergy dermatitis, food allergies are not seasonal, however GI symptoms may wax and wane to some degree.
Diagnosing Food Allergies

No single specific test can diagnose a food allergy. Allergen blood testing is available, but it is more appropriate for canine atopy and is not a reliable way to identify what food allergen your pet may be allergic to.

If you were to pursue a food allergy diagnosis, it is made by placing your pet on a strict “elimination diet” in which you introduce a new, highly-digestible protein source, and/or carbohydrate source, and no food additives. You can make this diet at home yourself, but be sure to consult with a veterinarian with expertise in nutrition before doing so. Usually it is advised to select a single novel protein (such as duck, rabbit, kangaroo, or other protein your pet has never eaten before, even once), a novel carbohydrate source (such as snow peas or potato), and a source of fat. During the first initial trial it is not as important that the diet be balanced. If your pet responds and the itching decreases, it will be crucial long-term (more than 2 months) to ensure the diet is adequately balanced.

Commercial diets with novel food sources are available, but in my opinion, if you want a commercially-prepared diet, it is wiser to choose a hydrolyzed diet because it is possible your pet may have been exposed to a novel food source that you weren’t aware of. Hydrolyzed protein diets contain proteins that are broken down into pieces too small to fit into the receptors that stimulate the pet’s immune system. These diets are already complete and balanced for adult dogs. Royal Canin has a new food called Anallergenic that shows results in 4 weeks which is a great improvement. Other prescription hypoallergenic diets are also appropriate but do take a little longer for a food trial.

A reduction in itching may be seen with a couple weeks, but in most cases it does take longer (usually around 6 weeks). The test diet should be fed for two to four months (except with the Anallergenic food). For dogs that respond positively, the diet should be continued provided it is balanced and complete. You must remember that table scraps, treats, chews, and flavored medications (such as heartworm meds) must not be given while the pet is on the trial diet and no offending allergens can be given the rest of the pet’s life after the offending allergen is identified.

- See more at: http://www.embracepetinsurance.com/medical-articles/food-allergies-in-dogs#sthash.nq17Qo8w.dpuf

Feeding Your Pet: One Food for Life or a Variety of Choices?

If variety is a virtue when it comes to nutrition, it stands to reason that the one-formula-for-life approach to pet foods might be problematic for our pets. One single formula seems unlikely to meet all of the needs any complex organism would require over a lifetime.

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Nonetheless, pet food manufacturers have gone to great lengths to devise formulas that are “100% nutritionally-balanced.” These foods are meticulously formulated to best meet the needs of a wide variety of our dogs and cats. Decades of study and uncounted pet lifetimes underpin the majority of these foods.

What’s more, these formulas are revised and refined constantly. Pet food manufacturers know they have competition and they work very hard to put out a good product. I know this firsthand, having traveled cross-country and even across the pond to bear witness to how pet food manufacturers study up in hopes of the perfect formula.

The problem is this: If we’ve undertaken thousands of times more research on human nutrition and still can’t decide what’s best for us, does it not stand to reason that a “nutritionally-balanced” diet for our pets might elude modern veterinary science as well?

It’s for this fundamental reason that I tend to eschew the one-formula-for-life mantra in favor of the occasional formula change. Though we were never lectured on the subject of pet food formula switcheroos while studying nutrition in vet school, the dearth of hard facts in this arena easily defends such informal thinking.

It’s just common sense. And yet few veterinarians advocate this approach. In fact, plenty of veterinarians think it’s a bad idea.

Given the lack of evidence to support the benefit of formula rotation for optimum nutrition and the reality of its digestive drawbacks for some patients’ delicate GI tracts, it’s inevitable this nontraditional approach would have its detractors. Nonetheless, I stand by the reasonable assumption that variety is a good thing. Especially since we’re talking about making gradual changes every month or two, not 180-degree deviations every few days.

But whether you agree that variety is the secret to nutritional success or not, there are plenty of reasons why you may not have much of a choice when it comes to switching it up. Consider the following:
Formulas change when ingredients wax and wane with the rigors of supply and demand.
Food allergies may require an alteration in ingredients.
Food intolerances may mean ingredient modification too.
Gastrointestinal disorders typically necessitate dietary adjustments.
Pet food recalls happen… and who knows when your preferred formula will be back.
Hurricanes, earthquakes, tornadoes, Costco’s change in hours, and other acts of God can mess with your food supply.

Formula variations are inevitable. So why fight it? After all, being so gastrointestinally wedded to any one formula that any accidental deviation leads to a lake of diarrhea can’t be a good thing. Then there’s the obvious to consider: How can you honestly say, “My pet eats ‘Brand X’ and he’s always done great!” unless you have something to compare it to?

Food for thought …

- See more at: http://www.embracepetinsurance.com/pet-care/feeding-your-pet-one-food-for-life-or-choices#sthash.4r0u5y1n.dpuf

Pros and Cons of Feeding Your Pet a Raw Diet

We pet parents are currently living in the age of “the great raw debate.” Feeding pets a raw diet is increasing in popularity, although there are still plenty of folks who don’t agree with it. I personally don’t feed raw, but I have friends who swear by it. To help myself (and you) understand more about this tricky world, I did some research and general poking around.

One note--feeding a raw diet seems to be more common in the dog world, but cats can eat it as well. And, as always, consult your veterinarian or pet nutritionist before embarking on any diet change, but especially one as big as this.
What Is A Raw Diet?

A raw diet is a method of feeding based on the “Biologically Appropriate Raw Food” or “Bones And Raw Food” (BARF) diet developed by Dr. Ian Billinghurst. Typically, a raw meal diet is comprised of raw meat and raw meaty bones (RMBs), organ meat, eggs, dairy, fruits and vegetables.
What Are The Main Raw Feeding Options?

The three main options for feeding raw are homemade, frozen, and freeze-dried meals.
Homemade: you get total control over what goes into the food bowl, but it’s the most time-consuming option (not only in preparation, but in the research you need to do to make sure your meals are nutritionally sound).
Frozen and Freeze-dried: commercially available, and typically come in bricks, nuggets, or patties. All you have to do is divvy out the right portion and add water. An added bonus of freeze-dried raw food is that you don’t need to store it in the freezer!
Pros of Feeding Raw
Better for digestion
Healthier coats and skin
Increased energy levels
Improved disposition
Cleaner teeth and gums (if whole bones are part of the diet)
Good for weight management, due to having no fillers and low carbs
Good for allergy management
Closer to wild/natural diet
Pets tend to love it
Cons of Feeding Raw
Benefits aren’t scientifically proven yet; they’re still just anecdotal
Raw meat can contain harmful bacteria – including E. coli and salmonella
Can cause severe diarrhea
More expensive
Takes up freezer space
Pets have been domesticated for too long; a “wild diet” doesn’t make sense
High risk for contamination of your kitchen dishes
Not good for immune-compromised pets
If you make your own, it can easily be imbalanced. Some commercial brands have inconsistency and unregulated contents
Soft food (the frozen or freeze-dried without whole bones) is bad for teeth
Bones can cause airway and intestinal blockage and perforations
Time-intensive: between researching, preparing, safe handling, and monitoring, it can take more time than feeding non-raw

So let’s say you do want to try a raw diet for your pet. Here are a few tips (in addition to consulting with your vet):
Use stainless steel dishes. Stainless steel is the best material for preventing transmission of bacteria
Wash bowls right away. After your pet is done eating, don’t wait; take up the bowl immediately and wash it thoroughly. Otherwise, you may be looking at a cesspool of bacteria.
Find others in the “raw community.” Do some web research, and ask around at your vet’s office or local healthy pet food store. Finding others to trade info and tips with can be invaluable.
Experiment and find what’s right for your pet. There are options, so stay watchful to see if your pet is responding well to what you’re trying. If not, move on to something else--and realize that in the end, raw just may not agree with your pet.
If you don’t want to go completely raw, some nutritionists and vets suggest adding a spoonful of raw meat to your pet’s kibble. Some claim that small amount alone can have a positive impact on your pet’s health.

This little article only scratches the surface. There is so much more information out there, so if raw sounds like it might possibly be for your pet, do more research, talk to your vet, talk to friends who have done it and stopped, friends whose pets are on it now, and people who absolutely hate the idea. Generally, a lot of the research I did and articles I read said most people decide the risks outweigh the benefits, but I’ve also seen the raw diet work with my own eyes.

In the end, you have to make your own educated decision and do what’s right for your pet.

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Raising a Puppy: The First 24 Hours

A puppy is a brand new little being of unlimited potential. This adorable, fuzzy bundle of joy will grab your heart and turn your world upside down. The first twenty-four hours after you bring him home is often especially difficult. He will be in a strange place with unknown people and may cry for his mother and siblings. You may feel overwhelmed and wonder if you made the right choice bringing him home. It doesn’t have to be quite so upsetting for either one of you though; especially if you’re prepared.

Before You Bring Him Home

Take the time to do some preparation prior to bringing home your new best friend. For a list of supplies you will need, take a look at this puppy checklist.

Making sure the living spaces you will be sharing with your puppy are safe is vitally important. Puppy proof your home, making sure your puppy can’t reach any wires, electronics, medicines, shoes, kids’ toys, or anything else that is chewable, potentially dangerous, or expensive.

Take a look at the yard too. Is your fence secure? There should be no loose wires or boards in the fence and no holes in or under the fence that can be enlarged by an industrious puppy. Check the gate also. Often the gate has more clearance under it so it can move freely and a small puppy might be able to slip under it.

Decide where your puppy is going to sleep, where he will eat, and where and how he will spend his days. If all of these decisions are made before you bring home your puppy, there will be fewer problems after he’s in the house.
The Ride Home

You will need to spend a few days with your puppy when he first comes home. This will help the two of you get to know each other as well as relieve some of his anxiety about being in a new home. It can be beneficial to bring your puppy home on a Friday afternoon if you have the weekend off.

Ask his breeder or the rescue to give him a small meal several hours before you pick him up. If his tummy is empty, he’ll be less likely to get carsick.

Have him ride home in his crate in your car. You might be tempted to have him ride on your lap, but that isn’t safe and it will give him the idea that this is how he will always ride in the car. He’s safer and will get into significantly less trouble in his crate.
Introductions

When you first get home, take him immediately to the spot where he will be relieving himself. Don’t let family members "oooh" and "aaah" over him right now; take him outside. Let him relax, sniff the grass, and then relieve himself. Praise him using the phase you will be using in the future, such as “Good boy to get busy!”

Once he’s relieved himself, bring him inside so the family can meet him one person at a time. You can have one person hold him, snuggle with him, and introduce him to toys. That person can offer him something to eat, take him outside again, and then put him in his crate for a nap. After his nap, take him outside again and another family member can interact with him. If too many people crowd him too quickly, with joyful noises and lots of hands touching him, your puppy may be overwhelmed, so make sure everyone understands the importance of taking things slow.

Avoid inviting extended family members or neighbors to come meet your new family member right away. Give him several days to become a part of your family, then gradually introduce new people.

If there is already a dog in the family, keep that introduction low key also. Make sure the dog at home gets plenty of attention, play time, walks, and tummy rubs so that the puppy’s addition to the family doesn’t cause jealousy.
Supervision is Everything

Supervision is going to be important for several months, but it’s most important in the first 24 hours. This is when your puppy might crawl into a closet or under a piece of furniture to hide; especially if he becomes overwhelmed. He may also hide to take a nap. If he does hide, it will be tough to find him as he won’t respond when you call him and he doesn’t know his name yet. Watch him carefully and, if you can’t, put him in his crate while you’re busy.

Supervising him in the house also allows you to begin teaching him the house rules. This begins immediately because you don’t want him to learn bad habits. So interrupt him should he begin chewing on shoes or tugging on the drapes, and then show him where his toys are and teach him that these toys are fun. Praise him when he plays with his toys.

He’s going to need to be watched him outside as well. A young puppy is helpless outside and he could easily get into trouble. Plus, hawks, owls, and coyotes can hunt puppies. In addition, when you take him outside you can teach him where in the yard you wish him to relieve himself.
This is Bonding Time

There is nothing like the relationship people have with a well-loved dog. Many dog owners say it’s better than the one they share with other people. Perhaps it’s the trust issue; after all, your dog will never betray the secrets you share with him. This bond will begin as soon as you first hold your puppy in your arms and will continue to grow as you bring him home.

There are several aspects that help create this bond, and one is time. You need to spend time with him. Play with him, hold him, train him, and talk to him. All of this begins during that first 24 hours and will continue as he grows up. You’ll know you’ve begun to create that bond when you look at your puppy and smile, and at the same time he looks at you and wags his tail.

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Nine Tips For Finding a Good Doggie Daycare

As much as some of us might like it, we can’t be with our dogs all the time. Whether you’re taking an extended vacation without your beloved pooch, or you simply need some quiet time to get things done around the house, a doggie daycare can be a lifesaver. But the question is: How do you choose the right one for your dog? As a long-time animal rescuer, dog parent, and lost pet specialist, I’ve compiled a list to help you pick your winner.
1. Ask for personal referrals from family, friends, and neighbors.

Turning to the people you trust most often yields great results. So start early and put the word out. And don’t forget about reaching out to your online circles through social media and neighborhood websites like Nextdoor.com.
2. Do your own online research.

As you get suggestions from people, Google the names of the facilities and owners. Look them up on Yelp, Angie’s List, and the Better Business Bureau website. And, obviously, you can plug in your own search terms to find places you might want to check out.
3. Visit facilities in person.

Once you’ve identified some potential daycares, go take a tour. Pay attention to:
Staff to dog ratio
Overall cleanliness, appearance, and smell
Doors/gate: Are there at least two of them between the lobby and street? Are they in good working order, including latches and locks?
Outdoor areas: They should have appropriate fencing (at least 6’ or 7’). Make sure the fence is not compromised in any way. Also notice if there’s plenty of water and shade available and that dogs are constantly monitored while outside.
General appearance and demeanor of staff: Are they friendly, knowledgeable, and communicative? Do they seem happy to be there and well-rested? Do they seem to be well-liked by both human and canine clients? Be wary of staff that are sullen, tired, uninformed, or confused, and those who don’t interact well with human or canine clients.
How the animals are treated and supervised: Look for staffers that give their full attention to the dogs. Watch how they manage the dogs. Do they seem to be able to read dog body language? Are they able to head off scuffles at the pass? Are they calling the dogs by name? Be concerned about any employees who are on their phones or otherwise distracted. Watch out for staffers who seem either overly aggressive or too passive with the dogs. Do the dogs display happy body language (tail wagging, heads up, playing with each other)? Scan the corners - are dogs cowering or displaying behaviors that indicate they don’t feel safe?

NOTE: Do not make an appointment for a tour; any good facility should be able and proud to show you their facility at all times.
4. Meet with managers/key staff and learn a little about the facility.

Ask lots of questions:
How long has the facility been operating?
What is the application/evaluation process?
What is the typical daily routine like?
Do they use cameras to monitor the dogs? Are they web-accessible to clients?
What are the qualifications of the staff members?
Ask to see licenses and facility permits
Ask what their protocol is for lost pet prevention and response
Ask how they handle emergencies like a dog fight, injury, or sickness
Ask questions about any online or word of mouth concerns you have about them
5. Ask previous and current clients what they think about the facility.

You can do this by striking up conversations in the parking lot or by directly messaging or emailing the authors of any interesting online reviews.
6. Observe the parking lot and lobby.

Watch the body language of dogs entering the facility. Do they seem excited, or do they put on the brakes? What do the dogs look like as they exit the facility?

Note how staffers handle dogs during drop off and pick up. Are they cognizant of avoiding fights and letting the dogs bolt out the door? Do they know and use dogs’ and humans’ names? Are they professional and efficient with any paperwork and payment procedures? Do they seem to have a lot of long-term clients or is the clientele mostly new?
7. Give them a trial run.

If you think you've found a winner, drop your dog off for just a few hours while you run local errands. Make it a day when you can drop everything and get over there if anything goes sideways. While your dog is there, call and check in on your dog. Staff should be able to give a status report in fairly short order. When you pick your dog up, ask for another report of what and how she did. The more specific the answers staff can give, the better.
8. Once you get home, notice your dog’s behavior.

She should be tired, but not totally exhausted. She might be a little stinky, but she shouldn’t reek of urine or feces. Be sure to give her body a full once-over to look for any marks. Little scratches are to be expected, but bites or other severe injuries should be a major concern. Sometimes, accidents happen at doggie daycare, but the facility should always call you immediately to report them. If they don’t, they are either trying to hide it or they don’t know about it - neither of which is good.
9. Stay alert.

Once you choose a facility, stay involved and communicative. Things can change over time, and accidents happen even in the best places, so don’t let yourself become too complacent. Always keep your radar up.

Leaving your dog with strangers can be stressful, but it doesn’t have to be. A little homework can go a long way, so do your due diligence, and you (and your dog) will reap the benefits.

What are your tips for finding the best doggie daycare?

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Forming Healthy Exercise Habits with Your Dog

A habit, from the standpoint of a dog, is more or less a routine of behavior. It comes very easily to dogs. They are masters at identifying subtle cues that tell them how to behave. They also have unbelievable internal clocks. Routines for dogs generally revolve around three things: food, exercise and sleep. Food and sleep are probably the easiest routines for us, their people, to establish. Exercise… a little harder.

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Exercise plays such a big role in your dog’s behavior and overall well-being. Without it they can become depressed, anxious and unhealthy. Exercise feeds the brain with oxygen and floods the body with feel-good endorphins that give us a zest for life and energy to tackle the unknown.

You already have the best and most loyal workout buddy, so how do you eliminate exercise excuses and form good habits with your dog?
1) Set a Goal

Write out exercise goals for you and your pet for the week, month, and year. Put them on your mirror or refrigerator so you will see them several times a day. Be honest with yourself. Set goals that are achievable to establish success. Use your small successes to launch loftier goals. No matter how big or small, make every movement count.
2) Set a Time

There are many studies that have been done regarding workout time and the evidence overwhelmingly indicates that workouts scheduled in the morning, before our day starts, are more consistent. Plus, it jump starts your metabolism – and your dog's – so you both will burn more calories throughout the day. Start by setting your alarm 15 minutes early and work up to 40 minutes or an hour before you start your regular morning routine. Lay out the leash, shoes and workout clothes the night before. Not a morning person? That’s okay. Just make sure you don’t give in to distractions.
3) Pick an Activity

Choose an activity that you and your dog will enjoy that increases heart rate. A walk or run can be made fun with a few obstacles or obedience drills thrown in to mix it up. If you can’t get outside, there are tools to exercise indoors too. The key is to MAKE IT FUN!! Don’t feel like you have to stick to traditional exercise parameters.
4) Track It

Record keeping is an effective means for maintaining consistent training. Even more motivational is routinely reviewing your progress. Use a journal to write down distance, time, activity, weather, mood, how your dog responded, food, etc. Reviewing your training logs will help you see if you are moving forward or falling back. It will also help you identify any underlying issues or plateaus that you see developing.

As with any exercise program, motivation is an important aspect. If you are having trouble staying motivated and the whack, whack of a thumping tail is not enough to get you out the door – then consider enlisting the help of other dog-loving friends and schedule a group meet up.

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Medicating Your Cat: A Veterinarian’s Tutorial

There’s a fun little cat-themed meme that’s been circulating online over the past ten or twenty years. In one of its many iterations, a cat owner explains “how to pill a cat in 13 easy steps” and concludes that it might be best to keep a hamster instead.

While you’ll never find me backing any plan to keep hamsters over cats, I don’t disagree that some cats are a nightmare to medicate. This discomforting reality is especially apparent when you consider how easy it is to get a dog to swallow a pill. Wrap it in peanut butter and –– voilá! –– you’ve done the job. But cats? … Not so much.

Not that all cats are difficult to give meds to. Indeed, I’ve found that plenty of cats are surprisingly easygoing on this issue. Open their mouths with the tip of a syringe and they’ll down every drop. Place a pill on their tongue and they’ll swallow it quick. Got a powder, pill or elixir you want to mix into their food? No complaints.

But these are only the outliers. The majority of felines will give you a run for your money when it comes to accepting the administration of meds. They’ll spit up the pill, drool out the liquid, and turn their nose up at a “contaminated” food bowl. (“What, do you think I’m really that stupid?”)

Then there are those who won’t even let you get close enough to offer the offending item. After one or two rounds, they’re smart enough to hide out until you get tired of looking for them. Alternatively, they may well truck out the teeth and claws to let you know –– definitively –– that they’re not going to comply (and that you can keep your stupid human tricks to yourself, while you’re at it).

Fortunately, there are some tricks of the trade that people like me (vets, vet techs, pet sitters and other pet professionals) have developed and mastered that might well be of use to the wider cat-owning public. To that end, here’s my personal “how-to” guide for your consideration:
#1 The traditional pilling method

Hold the top of your cat’s head with your non-dominant hand, just as if you were holding a baseball. In so doing, crook your fingers and thumb underneath her cheekbones. Next, crane her head back so that it’s pointing up. You’ll notice her mouth will open as you do this. This is usually just enough of an opening for you to pop a pill in with your dominant hand. (I sometimes just drop it in so I don’t risk the wrath of those teeth.)

Now you simply close her mouth gently and wait for her to swallow. You’ll usually know she’s done this when she licks her nose. At which time you can release your hold on her head and hope to God she doesn’t spit it back out somehow.
#2 The traditional liquid medication method

Hold the top of your cat’s head as for the pilling method. Instead of craning her head backwards, though, simply insert the tip of the syringe into one of the corners of her closed mouth. Slowly depress the plunger on the syringe, waiting patiently for her to swallow bits of it as you go. If you’re doing it right, you’ll see her throat “gulping” as she takes her meds.

Administering a liquid may sound like it’s an easier process, but I happen to be a big believer in the greater simplicity of pills for medicating most cats. Cats do differ, however, so it’s always worth trying to medicate with a liquid when pills prove difficult. And sometimes it’s true that cats will respond well to some liquids and pills and poorly to others so ask your veterinarian whether most cats tend to prefer the pill or liquid versions of the meds he or she prescribes.
#3 Handling the resistance

A significant percentage will inevitably resist. They do NOT want that nasty stuff in them and they’ll be sure to let you know this with as many of their “tools” as they have to before you’ll understand and internalize their position on this subject.

My approach to these patients is to first find out how badly they’re willing to hurt me. If I conclude they’re not terribly serious about making me go away (i.e., they’re not threatening to actually bite me), I’ll wrap them in a towel, burrito-style, and try my usual tactics for pills and elixirs. If they’re especially tough, I’ll enlist additional help to hold as I medicate or vice-versa.

Using a pilling gun or some other such tool may be necessary here. These pilling tools allow you to remain outside the clutch of those feline teeth, meanwhile allowing you to get deeper down into the oral cavity with the pill itself.
#4 Reigning in the regurgitator or drooler

Some cats are masterful rejecters of pills and liquid. Somehow, they actually manage to bring up the item as if it’s nothing more than a wayward bit of offensive kibble. Or they’ll spit out the stuff in a stringy dribble of drug-tinged drool.

I’m not a fan of these patients' reluctance. It makes it almost impossible to administer anything to them orally. For these, I employ the next two tips:
#5 The pill disguise

It’s always a good idea to try something like those commercially available “pill pockets” for tricking your gulper into taking his meds but beware: most cats will start off taking the secreted pills, only to figure it out and, unbeknownst to you, start spitting them out behind your bed or under your sofa.
#6 Alternative approaches

Some conditions are treatable through other means. Treatment with radioactive iodide, for example, can cure cats of hyperthyroidism, thereby relieving you of drug delivery detail forever (at least for treating her thyroid disease). Others are amenable to treatment via subcutaneous injection. (Believe it or not, almost all cats prefer subcutaneous injections to pills and liquids.)

Alternatively, some medications can be formulated as a gel that can be absorbed through the skin. This “transdermal” approach is one many compounding pharmacies will prepare for their animal patients whose unwillingness to take medication makes treatment otherwise impossible.
#7 Start early

The one thing I will say in favor of having to medicate sick kittens under eight weeks of age is that these babies tend to grow up into easier to treat cats. Young kittens who must be medicated frequently during their socialization window (between 2 and 7 weeks of age) will almost inevitably learn to tolerate such ministrations and carry this easygoing aspect of their personalities into adulthood.

So those are my tips. Now it’s your turn: What do YOU do when it comes time to medicating your cats?

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Cats are Not Small Dogs!

Any true cat person knows that a cat certainly deserves its own pet ownership (or servitude) manual, but you may not realize just how different the make-up of these mysterious creatures is. Below are eight major ways that cats are in no way small dogs. Being aware of these may just save your cat's life.
8. Disease processes are not the same in dogs and cats.

Pancreatitis in the cat may cause anorexia, severe hypotension and hypothermia, without vomiting or obvious abdominal pain typically seen in the dog. Heart disease in the cat may be present as rear limb paralysis rather than respiratory distress. While it is your veterinarian's job to keep track of these differences, if you recognize that diseases look differently in cats than they do in dogs (or humans), you will save yourself some inadvertent misdiagnoses.

7. Flea medicines for dogs are not intended for cats!

One of the most common cat toxicities veterinarians see is the result of accidental application of dog’s products containing permethrin to cats. Most brands of permethrin “spot-on” products are labeled for “use in dogs only.” These permethrin compounds may be obtained over-the-counter in grocery stores or pet stores. The clinical signs occur a few minutes to hours after exposure and consist of depression, salivation, vomiting, muscle tremor, seizures, ataxia, difficulty breathing, loss of appetite, and death.
6. A dog that refuses food?

Except for teacup pooches and puppies, for the most part, dogs will recover fine after a few days without food. The same is not true with cats. If a cat stops eating, nutritional support needs to start sooner rather than later. Intervention to prevent hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver disease) becomes a vet's number one priority in the anorexic feline patient.
5. A cat that doesn't urinate, specifically a male cat, is an emergency.

Male cats are at the highest risk for developing a much dreaded veterinary emergency: urinary obstruction. Neutered male cats have incredibly narrow urethras (the tube that drains the bladder to the outside world through the penis) and are prone to urethral obstruction. Trouble urinating is not something to wait and watch in felines.
4. Don't share medications between dogs and cats!

Aspirin and Tylenol are two examples where a dog may do fine after ingesting small amounts but a cat that gets into these drugs is at real risk for a fatal toxicosis. With this said, you shouldn't give your dog aspirin or Tylenol either, as they can be dangerous to dogs as well.
3. Cats cannot thrive on dog food!

Being carnivores by nature, cats require no carbohydrates but need high levels of meat-based protein. The cat's protein requirement is 50% higher for growth and over 100% for maintenance as compared to the dog. Cats lack certain enzyme systems that allow dogs to convert some nutrients into useable forms. Cats need higher levels of taurine, arginine, niacin, arachidonic acid, and vitamin A in their diets, and therefore, their own food!
2. Cats often hide illness.

While both dogs and cats tend to be more stoic than people, a dog will usually mope and make his sickness well known; a cat may simply retreat. Many owners do not realize their cats are sick until they stop eating, start vomiting, or exhibiting behavior changes such as hiding. By the time this occurs, many of our feline friends are in kidney failure, have significant heart disease, or are diabetic.
1. The mental health of the cat is often just as important as the physical health.

While many dogs are happy to hang out with anyone anywhere, cats are pampered pets that get very attached to their people and surroundings. Hospital visits by the owners are often helpful for sick cats, along with having familiar items in their cage. Blankets, bedding, and a box for the cat to hide in and obstruct their view of strange people and animals (as the conditions allow), reduce their level of fear and stress. With cats, we must think about far more than their medication schedule and test results when they are hospitalized!

In our country, cats outrank dogs as the most popular household pet. Despite the feline's reign, fewer cats are going to the vet each year. Don't be part of this trend. It is very important for cats to have yearly exams and full blood work.

When it comes to getting annual exams, cat parents may have trouble getting their feline to the veterinarian as cats often see their carrier as a torture device. Don't let it stop you getting your cat to the vet. Talk to your veterinarian about a sedative that might make your kitty more relaxed. As an alternative, you may also consider using a mobile veterinarian who offers house calls and will come to your cat. Either way, it’s important to ensure your cat gets the care they deserve to live a long and happy life.
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Behavior and Nutrition Can Be Linked

A friend of mine is an elementary school teacher who presently teaches kindergarten. She knows which children come into her classroom in the morning after having a breakfast with protein and which have had sugar cereal. She says the kids who have eaten cereals are excited – sometimes to the point of not being able to sit still – and then later in the morning they crash and need to take a nap.

Food and Behavior

Many dogs – especially puppies and young dogs – are the same way. I see these puppies come into my puppy classes more wiggly than is normal even for puppies. They have a hard time concentrating and their owners say their puppies have a difficult time learning. As a general rule these wiggly puppies are eating foods high in cereal grains – corn, wheat, and rice – and when changed to a food higher in meat proteins with carbohydrates supplied by vegetables and fruits, rather than cereal grains, the puppies’ behavior calms to a more normal level.

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Pica is also a fairly common problem that can be related to food. The practice of eating nonfood items is called pica and there can be many causes of pica in dogs. Boredom is certainly a common reason. A dog may chew on a stick out of boredom and then ingest small pieces of wood. However, many dog trainers and behaviorists also believe that when a dog is consuming a less than optimal diet (for that individual dog) the dog may begin eating other items to satisfy a need. Dogs have been known to eat dirt, rocks, wood, stucco off the side of the house, and many other decidedly non-food items.

Many trainers and behaviorists are also trying to determine if there is a link between aggression and a high meat protein diet. Nothing conclusive has been determined yet but discussions continue.
Recommendations

Even though dog trainers and behaviorists know that nutrition can affect canine behavior in a variety of ways, few independent (unrelated to dog food companies) studies have been done concerning dog behavior and nutrition. Therefore, recommending changes and finding the right answer can be difficult and is often a matter of trial and error.

If your dog has some behavior issues that you feel might be caused by nutrition, talk to your dog trainer or behaviorist. She has probably dealt with similar issues in the past and may have some suggestions for you regarding foods you may want to try. Before making any changes, however, talk to your veterinarian as well. Your veterinarian will want to evaluate your dog’s health and she can let you know if there are any foods or ingredients that your dog should or should not eat.

If you decide to change your dog’s food, do so slowly. Begin by giving your dog ¼ of the new food to ¾ of the old food for a week. Then feed half and half for a week. If your dog is doing well and has no gastrointestinal upsets, you can probably switch over entirely to the new food on the third week.

Behavior changes take time to resolve themselves at any time but especially after a diet change. Give your dog several weeks after completing the diet change before you evaluate her behavior. Your trainer may also recommend some behavior modification or training to be doing at the same time. After all, behaviors – even those caused by diet – can also turn into habits and habits take time and work to change.

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